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entrepreneurSpotted April 2023

Entrepreneur Virgil Abloh spotted wearing a Patek Philippe

entrepreneur Virgil Abloh spotted wearing a Patek Philippe
Who & what: Patek Philippe Nautilus 'All Black' DLC Piece Unique x Madparis – Virgil Abloh's Custom One-of-a-Kind

When Virgil Abloh appeared at a Louis Vuitton runway bow with his hands pressed together in a now-iconic gesture of gratitude, sharp-eyed watch observers noticed the all-black timepiece on his wrist. That watch was not a standard Patek Philippe — it was something far rarer: a one-of-a-kind Nautilus moonphase completely engulfed in a diamond-like carbon coating, executed by French customization house Madparis.

The base reference is the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5726A, the annual calendar moonphase variant of Gerald Genta's 1976 masterpiece. The 5726A houses calibre 324 S QA LU 24H, a self-winding movement with annual calendar, moon phase display, subsidiary seconds, and a power reserve of approximately 45 hours. In its standard stainless steel execution, the 5726A already commands significant collector attention — but Abloh's version operates in an entirely different dimension.

Madparis, a Paris atelier that has built a reputation for applying DLC and PVD treatments to high-horology pieces, subjected this Nautilus to a process exceeding two months in duration. The case, bracelet, dial surround, and crown were washed, polished, brushed, and sandblasted through multiple cycles before the actual diamond-like carbon deposition took place. DLC coating — a form of amorphous carbon harder than conventional PVD — delivers exceptional scratch resistance alongside an intensely deep, matte-to-satin black finish. The result on the 5726A is a dial and case that disappear into each other, the moonphase subdial and indices barely distinguishable at certain angles, creating an almost conceptual object.

Abloh's relationship with luxury goods was never simple reverence — it was always interrogation. As founder of Off-White and artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear, he consistently recontextualized high-end objects by pushing them through the lens of streetwear, architecture, and conceptual art. Commissioning Madparis to black-out a Patek Philippe Nautilus moonphase was entirely consistent with that practice: taking one of horology's most coveted references and rendering it alien, monochromatic, and unmistakably his own.

On the open market, a standard Patek Philippe Nautilus 5726A in steel already trades at a substantial premium to its retail list price, with grey-market values reflecting persistent demand and limited production. As a confirmed piece unique with documented provenance linked to Abloh, this watch has transcended conventional pricing entirely — it is a collectible artifact whose value is inseparable from the cultural biography of its late owner.

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