Influencer Teddy Nguema spotted wearing a Patek Philippe

Teddy Nguema, a prominent influencer and watch collector, was recently photographed wearing the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5980/R Flyback Chronograph in rose gold during an automotive showcase. The full-diamond factory setting—comprising 893 brilliant-cut and 191 baguette-cut diamonds across the bezel and bracelet—commands immediate attention, elevating this already rare chronograph into the realm of haute horlogerie jewellery pieces.

The Ref. 5980/R is built on the iconic Nautilus case introduced by Gérald Genta in 1976, here scaled at 35.2 mm in diameter with a thickness of 8.27 mm. The movement is Patek Philippe's Calibre CHR 27-525 PS, an integrated column-wheel flyback chronograph with a 35-second subdial at 3 o'clock, 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock, and small seconds at 9 o'clock. Water resistance reaches 120 metres. The black opaline dial features applied gold hour markers and chronograph counters, while the date window sits at 12 o'clock—a hallmark of this reference. The Tondeau-style bezel is set entirely with baguette-cut diamonds, and the three-row Nautilus bracelet follows the same diamond-studded treatment, creating an unmistakable luxury profile.

The 5980/R stands apart from the stainless steel 5980/1 and white gold 5980/1G variants through its rose gold composition and factory diamond pave work. Production of this reference began in the early 2010s and remains extremely limited; fewer than 500 examples are believed to exist worldwide. The combination of integrated chronograph, Nautilus case geometry, and full diamond setting makes this one of Patek Philippe's most challenging pieces to acquire on the primary market, with waiting lists typically exceeding five years at authorized dealers.

Nguema's choice reflects the growing appetite among collectors for chronographs that blur the line between functional sports watch and statement jewellery. The Nautilus Ref. 5980/R has historically appreciated faster than most steel sports watches, driven by scarcity and the technical achievement of housing a column-wheel chronograph within the Nautilus' signature integrated case.

Retail pricing for the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5980/R hovers around $880,000 USD at list, though grey-market examples with full factory provenance regularly trade between $950,000 and $1.2 million depending on condition and service history. The diamond setting and rose gold composition position it at the premium tier of Nautilus chronographs, making it a cornerstone piece for advanced collectors seeking both technical mastery and visible luxury.