Watch Paparazzi

Royal Tunku Ismail Ibni Sultan Ibrahim spotted wearing Patek Philippe

Tunku Ismail Ibni Sultan Ibrahim, Crown Prince of Johor and one of Southeast Asia's most closely watched royal figures, was recently spotted wearing the Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph in steel and rose gold, reference 5980/1AR — a watch that occupies a singular position in the modern Patek Philippe catalogue and in the broader landscape of luxury sport chronographs.

The 5980/1AR measures 40.5mm and is built around the Calibre CH 28-520 C, an entirely in-house movement developed by Patek Philippe and introduced with the 5980 in 2006. The movement features a column wheel, a lateral clutch for smoother engagement, and critically, a flyback function — allowing the chronograph to be reset and restarted in a single pusher operation. That technical detail is what distinguishes the 5980 from the simpler 5976 and 5726 chronograph models within the Nautilus family. The bi-color case, combining a polished and satin-brushed steel mid-case with rose gold bezel, crown, and bracelet centre links, gives the 5980/1AR its unmistakable two-tone identity without tipping into ostentation.

Among collectors, the 5980 is regarded as the most technically accomplished Nautilus variant. The flyback complication adds genuine utility and movement complexity, while the integrated bracelet — faithful to Gérald Genta's original 1976 design language — remains one of the most ergonomically successful in horology. The 5980/1AR in particular benefits from the warm contrast of rose gold against steel, a combination that reads as understated in person despite its considerable presence on the wrist.

Tunku Ismail is no stranger to fine watches and has built a public profile that balances royal responsibility with a frank, modern sensibility. His watch choices tend toward the substantive rather than the merely expensive, and the 5980/1AR fits that pattern precisely — it is not the flashiest Patek Philippe available, but it is arguably the most technically interesting Nautilus in production.

At list price the 5980/1AR retails for approximately $73,180 USD, but the grey market has driven its value to roughly $215,000 — a near-tripling that reflects both constrained Patek Philippe supply and the enduring collector appetite for any Nautilus variant. The flyback chronograph commands a premium even within that elevated context.