Watch Paparazzi

Entrepreneur Francesca Bellettini spotted wearing Patek Philippe

Francesca Bellettini, the CEO credited with rescuing Yves Saint Laurent from near-irrelevance and transforming it into a multi-billion-euro powerhouse within the Kering group, was recently spotted wearing a vintage Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3800/1A in stainless steel — a piece whose understated elegance mirrors her own reputation for disciplined, long-term vision over flashy short-termism.

Patek Philippe introduced the Nautilus 3800 in 1981, roughly five years after the landmark 3700 'Jumbo' that Gerald Genta designed in a single night for the 1976 Basel Fair. The 3800 was conceived as a response to the slow initial commercial uptake of the Nautilus line: its case diameter was reduced to 37.5mm, making it more versatile and appealing to a broader audience. The reference 3800/1A designation indicates a stainless steel case and bracelet, housing the in-house calibre 335 SC — a manually finished, 21-jewel movement with a 48-hour power reserve. The integrated bracelet, horizontal embossed dial, and signature stepped bezel with rounded lugs remain faithful to Genta's original nautical-porthole motif.

Among collectors, the 3800/1A occupies a fascinating position. It was produced from 1981 through the mid-2000s, spanning multiple dial variants including the sought-after blue and black iterations. Earlier examples with 'sigma' dial markings — indicating solid gold applied indices — command particular premiums. The reference never attracted the same immediate frenzy as the Jumbo, yet precisely because of that measured history, it has aged into one of the most respected and genuinely wearable vintage Pateks available today.

Bellettini's choice is revealing. As President of YSL and now Deputy CEO of Kering overseeing all fashion and leather goods houses, she operates in a world saturated with conspicuous luxury. Choosing a vintage 3800 rather than a contemporary Nautilus 5711 — arguably the most hyped watch of the past decade — speaks to a collector sensibility that prizes authenticity and horological depth over market noise.

On the grey market, well-preserved examples of the Nautilus 3800/1A in steel have climbed steadily, typically trading between $25,000 and $45,000 depending on condition, dial variant, and box-and-papers status. The reference has no official retail price today, having been discontinued, but its collector trajectory continues upward as vintage Nautilus demand shows no signs of cooling.