Watch Paparazzi

Entrepreneur Pierre Thomas spotted wearing Patek Philippe

Pierre Thomas, co-founder and CEO of Quality Control Music — the Atlanta-based label behind Lil Baby and Lil Uzi Vert — was recently photographed wearing one of the rarest production references Patek Philippe has ever committed to the Nautilus line: the 5723/112R-001, an 18K rose gold gem-set variant that sits at the absolute apex of the family's complications-meets-haute-joaillerie crossover.

The Nautilus 5723 reference was introduced as a gem-set evolution of the classic 5711 and 5712 lineage, designed to bring high jewellery credentials to Gerald Genta's legendary 1976 porthole silhouette. The 5723/112R-001 specification is particularly demanding: its bezel is pavé-set with 32 baguette rubies, a configuration requiring each stone to be individually calibrated and channel-set with minimal metal separation to maintain visual continuity across the octagonal case form. The 12 ruby hour markers on the chocolate brown dial reinforce the chromatic theme with admirable restraint, allowing the warmth of the 18K rose gold case and bracelet to anchor the composition. Powering the watch is Patek Philippe's Calibre 324 S C, a self-winding movement with a peripheral rotor, running at 28,800 vph with a minimum 45-hour power reserve — the same high-specification engine found across the wider Nautilus sports range.

From a collector standpoint, the 5723/112R-001 occupies a narrow but fiercely contested niche. Ruby-set Nautilus references appear almost never at auction and are seldom surrendered by original owners, making secondary market data points sparse and grey-market premiums severe. The reference appeals simultaneously to serious complications collectors who respect the movement's credentials and to jewellery-focused buyers drawn by the gemstone integration — a dual audience that compounds scarcity pressure considerably.

Thomas's taste in watches has consistently leaned toward statement-level Patek Philippe, and the 5723/112R-001 is precisely the kind of reference that signals deep familiarity with the catalogue rather than surface-level acquisition. This is not a watch one stumbles upon — it requires an established client relationship with the manufacture or a willingness to navigate a thin and expensive secondary market.

Officially, Patek Philippe does not publish retail pricing for gem-set references of this complexity, as pieces are typically allocated through boutiques on a client-by-client basis. On the grey market, the Nautilus 5723/112R-001 is currently trading at approximately $320,000, a figure that reflects both the intrinsic value of the rubies and the near-impossibility of sourcing one through conventional channels.