Marco Asensio, the Spanish international winger who has built his career at Real Madrid, was recently spotted wearing a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R — a rose gold flyback chronograph that sits firmly at the top of the Nautilus hierarchy. It is the kind of wrist choice that goes beyond brand recognition, signalling a genuine understanding of high horology.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R was introduced in 2014 as the rose gold iteration of the 5990 line, which itself debuted in 2006. Its 44.6mm rose gold case — larger than the classic 5711 — houses the calibre CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H, a movement of considerable complexity. That self-winding calibre combines a flyback chronograph with an annual calendar, day/night indicator, and a second time zone with a 24-hour display. It is a travel watch and a complications piece rolled into one Gerald Genta-inspired integrated bracelet design. Power reserve stands at approximately 45 to 55 hours.
From a collector standpoint, the 5990/1R occupies a unique position. Unlike the standard 5711 or 5726, it was never produced in overwhelming numbers, and the rose gold version commands a premium even within the 5990 family. The combination of a flyback mechanism — allowing the chronograph to be reset and restarted in a single pusher operation — with an annual calendar is technically demanding to produce and genuinely useful. Collectors regard this reference as an underappreciated workhorse of the Nautilus line, often overshadowed by the 5711 frenzy but no less desirable.
Asensio has long been associated with a refined, low-key aesthetic, and the 5990/1R fits that profile. Rose gold lends warmth without the stridency of yellow gold, and the blue-on-rose dial contrast is one of Patek's most elegant executions. For a footballer at the peak of his earning capacity, this is a considered choice rather than an impulse buy.
On the current grey market, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R trades well above its already substantial retail price, reflecting both the scarcity of rose gold complications and sustained global demand for anything bearing the Nautilus name. With an official retail around $230,000 USD and secondary market values climbing accordingly, this is unambiguously a six-figure wrist.
Marco Asensio wearing Rolex
Rolex Submariner 'Smurf' 18ct White Gold Blue Dial & Bezel Reference 116619LB – Marco Asensio
Ref. unknown
List Price: unknown
30/12/2022
Lautaro Martínez wearing Patek Philippe
18K Rose Gold Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time With a Blue Dial
Ref. 5990/1R
List Price: $118,280
08/06/2023
Marco Verratti wearing Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001 18k Rose Gold Flyback Chronograph Travel Time – Blue Dial
Ref. 5990/1R
List Price: $106,452
03/05/2023
Harry Kane wearing Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Flyback Chronograph 18K Rose Gold Blue Dial Ref. 5990/1R-001
Ref. 5990/1R
List Price: unknown
27/04/2023
Nicky Jam wearing Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Travel Time Flyback Chronograph 18k Rose Gold Ref. 5990/1R – Blue Gradient Dial
Ref. 5990/1R
List Price: $106,450
14/12/2022
Frank Lampard wearing Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Travel Time Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5990/1R – 18ct Rose Gold, Gradient Blue Dial
Ref. 5990/1R
List Price: $106,450
01/12/2022
Zlatan Ibrahimovic wearing Patek Philippe
18K Rose Gold Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Blue Dial – Reference 5990/1R
Ref. 5990/1R
List Price: $88,350
30/11/2022
Charles Leclerc wearing Patek Philippe
18K Rose Gold Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Blue Dial Reference 5990/1R
Ref. 5990/1R
List Price: $81,970
30/11/2022
Luke Bryan wearing Patek Philippe
18K Rose Gold Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Blue Dial Reference 5990/1R-001 Spotted on Luke Bryan
Ref. 5990/1R️
List Price: $81,970
30/11/2022
Jesse Lingard wearing Patek Philippe
18K Rose Gold Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Blue Dial – Reference 5990/1R
Ref. 5990/1R
List Price: $81,970
30/11/2022
Mark Wahlberg wearing Patek Philippe
18K Rose Gold Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Blue Dial Reference 5990/1R
Ref. 5990/1R
List Price: $81,970
30/11/2022
Macklemore wearing Patek Philippe
18K Rose Gold Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time With a Blue Dial
Ref. 5990/1R️
List Price: $81,970
30/11/2022