Royal Tunku Ismail Ibni Sultan Ibrahim spotted wearing a Patek Philippe

The Crown Prince of Johor, Tunku Ismail Ibni Sultan Ibrahim, is one of Southeast Asia's most visible royal watch collectors, and his latest sighting underscores his appetite for historically significant references. On his wrist: the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce 'Rainbow' Chronograph 7968/300R in 18k rose gold — not merely a gem-set luxury sports watch, but the first Rainbow watch Patek Philippe has ever produced, a fact that immediately elevates its importance in the collector canon.

The reference 7968/300R is built around the Calibre CH 29-535 PS, Patek's own in-house column-wheel flyback chronograph movement, offering a 65-hour power reserve and finishing standards that remain a benchmark for the industry. The case measures 38.8mm — proportioned for the Luce (women's) line, though its crossover appeal is well established — and is crafted in 18k rose gold. The bezel is set with 40 baguette-cut diamonds and 40 baguette-cut multi-colored sapphires arranged in a seamless rainbow gradient, requiring extraordinary gemological matching and hand-setting by Patek's in-house lapidary atelier. The white mother-of-pearl dial carries the embossed Aquanaut trellis engraving and is set with 12 trapeze-cut multicolored sapphire hour markers that echo the bezel's chromatic progression.

The Aquanaut, introduced in 1997 as a more accessible companion to the Nautilus, has evolved into one of Patek's most desirable references. The Luce sub-line brought gem-set iterations to the collection, but the 7968/300R broke new ground entirely — the Rainbow designation had never been applied to a Patek Philippe before its introduction. That heritage landmark alone separates it from the broader category of jewelled sports watches.

Tunku Ismail — known publicly as TMJ — is no stranger to horological milestones. He has been photographed with grail references across multiple manufactures and uses his platform to communicate genuine enthusiasm for the craft rather than mere status signalling. His choice of the 7968/300R reads as deliberate: a watch with a specific claim to history, not simply an expensive one.

At an official retail price of $212,750, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph 7968/300R is already positioned at the summit of production watchmaking. On the secondary market, demand for gem-set Patek sports references with unique historical credentials consistently pushes prices well beyond retail, and this reference — as the first of its kind — commands particular attention from both collectors and auction specialists.