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royalSpotted November 2022

Royal Ammar bin Humaid Al Nuaimi spotted wearing a Patek Philippe

royal Ammar bin Humaid Al Nuaimi spotted wearing a Patek Philippe 5650G
Who & what: 18K White Gold Patek Philippe Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5650G

Sheikh Ammar bin Humaid Al Nuaimi, Crown Prince of Ajman and one of the UAE's most quietly prominent royal watch collectors, was recently photographed wearing a reference that stops serious horologists mid-sentence: the Patek Philippe Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time 5650G in 18K white gold, one of only 500 examples ever produced.

The 5650G, introduced at Baselworld 2015, represents far more than a dressed-up Aquanaut. It was conceived as a working laboratory for Patek Philippe's Advanced Research division, which since 2005 has used limited production references to field-test proprietary innovations before potential integration into the broader catalogue. The headline technology here is the Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar — a silicon-based material offering anti-magnetic properties and near-perfect isochronism — paired with a Pulsomax escapement, also in Silinvar, eliminating the need for lubrication at the escapement level. The result is Calibre 324 S C FUS, a movement offering exceptional long-term stability and drastically reduced service intervals.

The true masterstroke, however, is the travel-time complication itself. Rather than relying on conventional pushers or crown manipulation to advance the second time zone, Patek's engineers devised a patented flex-point system: a discrete zone on the case middle that, when pressed, advances the local-hour hand. It is invisible in design, radical in engineering — exactly the philosophy that defines Advanced Research references.

The 5650G wears on the characteristic embossed rubber strap of the Aquanaut family, with a 44.6mm white gold case that gives the sportier DNA of the line a more formal, precious edge. Only 500 pieces were allocated globally, making collector acquisition at launch near-impossible outside of established client relationships with authorized dealers.

On the secondary market, the 5650G commands extraordinary premiums. Current grey-market valuations place the reference at approximately $915,000 — a figure that reflects both extreme scarcity and the reference's status as a document of Patek's most forward-looking engineering. For Sheikh Ammar, whose public appearances regularly feature references most collectors only encounter behind glass, the 5650G reads less as a luxury statement and more as a considered study in watchmaking at its most intellectually serious.

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