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Entrepreneur Alessandro Squarzi spotted wearing Patek Philippe

Alessandro Squarzi, the Bolognese entrepreneur and creative force behind heritage workwear brand Fortela, was recently photographed wearing a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5168G-010 — the white gold iteration of the larger 42.2mm Aquanaut, known colloquially as the 'Jumbo' — during a sit-down interview with the Italian Watch Spotters YouTube channel.

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5168G was introduced in 2018 as part of Patek's 20th anniversary celebrations for the Aquanaut line. Where the standard stainless steel Ref. 5167A is the everyday workhorse, the 5168G occupies a more deliberate, considered space. Housed in an 18k white gold case measuring 42.2mm — hence the 'Jumbo' nickname — it runs the automatic Caliber 324 S C, a self-winding movement offering 35–45 hours of power reserve, beating at 28,800vph, and featuring a Gyromax balance wheel with Spiromax hairspring. The embossed khaki green dial, with its characteristic 'Nautilus-adjacent' texture, is one of the most distinctive dial treatments Patek has produced in the sport segment.

From a collector standpoint, the 5168G occupies an interesting position. White gold in a sport watch is a statement — it resists the pure tool-watch justification and asks the wearer to commit to it as an object of desire rather than utility. The khaki green dial variant became immediately desirable at launch, with the color coordinating precisely with the tropical rubber composite strap. It sits apart from the more commonly spotted blue or black dial versions and has developed a loyal following among collectors who appreciate the subdued, earthy palette.

Squarzi is not a casual watch enthusiast. The Fortela creative director is widely regarded within Italian collecting circles as someone with genuine depth of knowledge and a refined, unpretentious approach to horology — qualities evident in the IWS interview itself, which focused on the philosophy of collecting rather than trophy pieces. The 5168G on his wrist reads as a natural extension of that sensibility: technically serious, aesthetically restrained.

On the market, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5168G commands a significant premium. Official retail sits around $43,900 USD, but grey market demand has pushed prices well above list, reflecting the broader appetite for white gold sport Pateks in a market that continues to reward scarcity and material distinction.