Watch Paparazzi

Royal Abdul Mateen spotted wearing Patek Philippe

Prince Abdul Mateen of Brunei — a figure whose watch choices are tracked with near-royal reverence in collector circles — was recently spotted on the wrist with a Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time, Reference 5990. The Prince, known internationally both for his military bearing and his impeccable taste in timepieces, chose one of the most technically loaded references in the entire Nautilus family.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5990/1A is, by any honest measure, a horological tour de force. Powered by Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS, a self-winding movement beating at 28,800 vph, it integrates a flyback chronograph with a travel time complication — local and home time displayed via two independent hour hands, with day/night indicators for both zones. All of this is packed into the 44.6mm stainless steel case that Gerald Genta first sketched in 1976, its integrated bracelet and horizontally embossed dial unmistakably Nautilus. The steel version, reference 5990/1A-001, wears the classic blue gradient dial that has become synonymous with the line.

From a collector standpoint, the 5990 occupies a fascinating position. It is rarer and more complicated than the flagship 5711 chronograph-free model, yet it has historically attracted slightly less irrational secondary market speculation — making it arguably the more interesting intellectual purchase within the Nautilus universe. Collectors who understand movements tend to gravitate toward it precisely because it delivers tangible complication value rather than pure badge currency.

Abdul Mateen is no casual watch wearer. The Prince of Brunei has appeared publicly in everything from vintage Rolex Daytonas to grand complication Pateks, and his sightings reliably generate discussion across enthusiast forums. Choosing the Nautilus 5990 signals a preference for mechanical substance over mere iconography — a distinction that separates serious collectors from logo chasers.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Ref. 5990/1A carries a UK list price of approximately £35,500, translating to roughly $45,000 USD at retail. On the grey market, demand for steel Nautilus references remains elevated, and the 5990 typically commands a meaningful premium over list, often trading between $65,000 and $85,000 depending on condition, box, and papers.