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entrepreneurSpotted December 2022

Entrepreneur Bernard Arnault spotted wearing a Tag Heuer

entrepreneur Bernard Arnault spotted wearing a Tag Heuer CAV5185.FT6020
Who & what: Tag Heuer Grand Carrera Calibre 36 RS Racing Chronograph Titanium ref. CAV5185.FT6020 – Bernard Arnault

Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, was photographed wearing a Tag Heuer Grand Carrera Calibre 36 RS Racing Chronograph in titanium, reference CAV5185.FT6020. The choice carries an obvious but still noteworthy dimension: Tag Heuer has been part of the LVMH watch division since 1999, making Arnault the ultimate brand insider.

The Grand Carrera line debuted in 2005 as Tag Heuer's attempt to translate motorsport engineering directly into case architecture. Reference CAV5185.FT6020 takes that ambition furthest. The multi-faceted, satin-brushed case is machined from titanium and treated with a titanium carbide coating — a process borrowed from aerospace tooling — that dramatically increases surface hardness while keeping total weight roughly half that of an equivalent steel case. The result is a watch that wears with surprising lightness despite its bold, angular proportions.

At the heart of the piece beats the Calibre 36 RS, a COSC-certified automatic chronograph movement built around two independent "Rotating System" displays. Rather than conventional sub-dials, the RS architecture uses rotating cylinders: one at 9 o'clock reads elapsed tenths of a second via a linear counter, the other tracks elapsed minutes. The system was developed to improve legibility at speed and gives the dial a functional, instrument-like character that conventional register layouts rarely achieve. COSC certification confirms accuracy to within -4/+6 seconds per day.

Among collectors, the Grand Carrera Calibre 36 RS occupies an interesting position. It arrived at the height of the mid-2000s haute horlogerie arms race and represented Tag Heuer pushing genuinely beyond its entry-luxury comfort zone. Production volumes were never enormous, and the combination of the RS display system with the coated titanium case on the FT6020 reference makes it one of the more technically specified variants in the range. It appeals to buyers who prioritize engineering legibility over decorative finishing.

Retail pricing for the CAV5185.FT6020 sat in the mid-to-upper range of the Grand Carrera catalogue at launch. On the secondary market, examples in solid condition trade at a modest premium over initial retail, reflecting stable rather than speculative collector demand. For Arnault, of course, the value proposition is secondary — wearing a Tag Heuer is, at minimum, a statement of confidence in his own portfolio.

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