Watch Paparazzi

Politician Silvio Berlusconi spotted wearing Patek Philippe

In an archival photograph circulated during Berlusconi's high-profile donation of ten million euros toward the construction of an intensive-care unit at the Fiera di Milano exhibition centre, the Italian entrepreneur and former Prime Minister can be seen wearing a yellow gold Patek Philippe Calatrava — identifiable by its small seconds at six o'clock and the distinctive 'Clous de Paris' hobnail-engraved bezel that defines the reference 5115J.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5115J was introduced in 1998 as part of the Geneva manufacture's effort to revive its most canonical case silhouette in strictly traditional terms. The 36mm 18-karat yellow gold case houses the manually wound Calibre 215 PS, a movement measuring just 2.55mm in height and celebrated for its finishing quality — Geneva Stripes, bevelled bridges, and a Gyromax balance wheel regulated to five positions. Power reserve runs to 44 hours. The dial is lacquered in silver-white, with applied yellow gold baton indices and a discreet small seconds subdial at six — a layout unchanged in spirit since the original Calatrava reference 96 of 1932.

Among collectors, the 5115J occupies a quietly prestigious position. It is not the most sought-after Calatrava reference — that distinction tends to go to the earlier ref. 96 or the ultra-thin 3919 — but it represents the last generation of Calatravas made before case sizes began their upward creep. Its 36mm diameter, considered modest by contemporary standards, is precisely what draws purists to it. The 'Clous de Paris' bezel adds tactile interest without compromising the watch's formal integrity.

Berlusconi's affinity for Patek Philippe is consistent with his wider aesthetic: conservative, expensive, and rooted in European tradition. The Calatrava suits a man who built an empire in broadcasting and construction before reshaping Italian politics, yet consistently presented himself in tailored suits and understated accessories. A yellow gold dress watch over a white shirt cuff is entirely in character.

On the secondary market, the 5115J trades with measured solidity. Grey-market values hover modestly above retail, reflecting steady collector demand rather than speculative heat — appropriate for a watch that has always rewarded patience over impulse.