Watch Paparazzi

Entrepreneur Guram Gvasalia spotted wearing Audemars Piguet

Guram Gvasalia, the Georgian entrepreneur and co-founder of the influential Zurich-based fashion label Vetements, was recently photographed on the wrist wearing one of Audemars Piguet's most quietly extravagant Royal Oak references: the 15202BC, a factory-set diamond version of the legendary 'Jumbo' Extra-Thin in 18K white gold.

The Royal Oak 'Jumbo' Extra-Thin 15202BC is a direct descendant of Gerald Genta's 1972 masterpiece, the ref. 5402ST, which redefined luxury sports watches by introducing an integrated bracelet, an exposed tapisserie dial, and a bold octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal screws. The 15202BC retains the original 39mm case diameter and, crucially, houses the Calibre 2121 — a movement developed in collaboration with Jaeger-LeCoultre and measuring just 3.05mm thick. Total case height sits at 8.1mm, making it one of the thinnest automatic movements in a watch of this stature. The white gold case and bracelet are complemented by a pale grey Grande Tapisserie dial and applied hour markers, while the bezel is factory-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, a transformation handled entirely by AP's in-house gem-setters in Le Brassus.

From a collector's standpoint, the 15202 line occupies a singular position in the AP catalogue. It is the purest continuation of the original 'Jumbo' ethos — no date, no complications, movement integrity above all. The 15202BC adds a layer of rarity through its precious-metal, diamond-set configuration, making it a piece that appeals to collectors who want horological substance without sacrificing visual impact. Production numbers for diamond-set precious-metal Royal Oaks remain deliberately limited.

For Gvasalia, the choice reads as entirely coherent. As the business architect behind Vetements — a brand that elevated conceptual provocation into a commercial language — he gravitates toward objects that carry intellectual weight beneath an assertive surface. The 15202BC does exactly that: it looks like jewellery and performs like serious watchmaking.

At an official list price of approximately $150,000, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Jumbo' Extra-Thin 15202BC commands a significant premium over its stainless steel counterparts. On the secondary market, white gold and diamond-set Royal Oak Jumbos have held value firmly, with grey-market prices tracking closely to or above retail depending on condition and provenance — a reflection of both AP's supply discipline and sustained collector demand.