Entrepreneur Guram Gvasalia spotted wearing a Audemars Piguet

Guram Gvasalia, co-founder of the Geneva-based fashion label Vetements, was recently photographed wearing one of the most coveted references in the current Audemars Piguet catalogue — the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin in platinum with a smoked green dial, reference 15202PT. The sighting is notable not simply for the watch itself, but for what it signals about Gvasalia's collecting sensibility: this is not a watch purchased for visibility alone.

The 15202PT represents Audemars Piguet's most direct lineage to Gerald Genta's original 1972 Royal Oak design. At 39mm in diameter and just 8.1mm thick, the case retains the exact proportions Genta specified for reference 5402. The platinum construction adds significant weight and a cooler, more subdued lustre compared to stainless steel or white gold variants. The smoked green dial — executed in AP's signature petite tapisserie guillochage — shifts between deep forest and lighter sage depending on the light source, making it one of the more visually dynamic dial options in the current 15202 family.

Powering the watch is the hand-wound Calibre 2121, a movement with genuine historical weight. Developed jointly by Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Patek Philippe in the late 1960s, the 2121 — known at JLC as the 920 and at Patek as the 28-255 — measures just 3.05mm thick. Its continued use in the 15202 series, unchanged in essentials for over five decades, is a deliberate statement of continuity from AP at a time when many manufactures chase novelty.

Gvasalia occupies a specific position in the fashion world: less the front-row spectacle, more the architectural force behind it. His taste in watches reflects that posture. The 15202PT is not a watch that announces itself to a room. It rewards the informed observer — precisely the kind of collector currency that resonates in serious horological circles.

On the market, the 15202PT commands a significant premium over its already substantial list price of approximately $105,000. Grey-market transactions are currently tracking around $350,000, reflecting both the platinum specification and the smoked green dial's strong collector demand. Availability through authorised dealers remains extremely limited, and secondary market liquidity continues to tighten.