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designerSpotted May 2023

Designer Olivier Rousteing spotted wearing a Rolex

designer Olivier Rousteing spotted wearing a Rolex
Who & what: Rolex GMT-Master II 116718LN Full Yellow Gold Black Ceramic Bezel — Olivier Rousteing Sighting

Olivier Rousteing, the Paris-based creative director of Balmain, was photographed wearing a Rolex GMT-Master II in full 18k yellow gold, a reference that requires no introduction in serious watch circles. The image shows the watch stacked on his wrist with what appear to be cord or textile bracelets, a styling choice that speaks to his instinct for mixing luxury with a more casual, tactile aesthetic — consistent with the Balmain codes he has championed since taking the helm at age 25.

The watch in question is the Rolex GMT-Master II reference 116718LN, introduced at Baselworld 2005 and representing a landmark moment for the model: it was the first GMT-Master II to feature the then-new Cerachrom ceramic bezel, here executed in black with yellow gold numerals and graduations. The 40mm Oyster case, bracelet, and Jubilee-style or Oyster links are all crafted in 18k yellow gold, giving the piece a monolithic presence on the wrist. Powering the watch is the Rolex Calibre 3186, a bi-directional self-winding movement with a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, offering the independently adjustable GMT hand that defines the complication — ideal for a globetrotting fashion director working across Paris, New York, and beyond.

From a collector standpoint, the 116718LN occupies a nuanced position. It is arguably the most underappreciated reference in the GMT-Master II family — overshadowed commercially by the two-tone 116713LN and the stainless 116710LN variants — yet it commands serious respect for its full-gold execution and ceramic bezel combination. The reference was discontinued when Rolex introduced the updated 40mm GMT-Master II generation in 2019, adding scarcity value to existing examples.

Rousteing's aesthetic is rooted in unapologetic opulence, and the all-yellow-gold GMT-Master II is a natural extension of that language. It signals horological literacy without abandoning the visual boldness that defines his personal brand. Unlike many fashion figures who opt for diamond-set or bespoke pieces, his choice of a production-line Rolex — albeit an exceptional one — suggests genuine engagement with the watch itself.

On the grey market, the 116718LN trades well above its original retail price, reflecting both the discontinued status of the reference and sustained demand for yellow gold sports Rolex pieces. Collectors seeking this specific combination of ceramic bezel and full gold construction now face a secondary market that shows no signs of softening.

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