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politician Teodoro Nguema Obiang Mangue spotted wearing a Jacob & Co

Politician Teodoro Nguema Obiang Mangue spotted wearing Jacob & Co

03/05/2023

Description: Jacob & Co Brilliant Flying Tourbillon 'Purple Dégradé' Pièce Unique – Invisible-Set Sapphires, Rubies & Diamonds
Brand: Jacob & Co
Ref: unknown
List Price: $700,000
Market Price (estimated): unknown
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Spotted aboard what appears to be a private vessel in a tropical marina, Teodoro Nguema Obiang Mangue — Vice President of Equatorial Guinea and son of longtime president Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo — was photographed wearing one of the most technically demanding wristwatches ever produced by Jacob & Co: the Brilliant Flying Tourbillon 'Purple Dégradé,' a confirmed pièce unique valued at approximately $700,000.

The watch belongs to Jacob & Co's Brilliant collection, which exists specifically as a canvas for the brand's Geneva atelier to demonstrate invisible setting at its most extreme. On this specific piece, 170 baguette-cut blue and purple sapphires sweep across the upper half of the dial and bezel in a tight chromatic gradient, transitioning through violet into rich ruby red across the lower registers. Baguette-cut diamonds form a checkerboard band at the case edge, providing contrast and structural punctuation. The crown is set with 14 baguette-cut rubies and finished with a single cabochon ruby — a detail visible only under close examination. Invisible setting of this calibre requires each stone to be individually undercut and fitted into a metal rail system so that the girdles interlock without prongs, producing a continuous gemstone surface. It is extraordinarily labour-intensive.

At the centre of the dial, a flying tourbillon — so-called because the upper bridge is removed, leaving the cage to appear suspended — rotates on a 60-second cycle. The movement architecture is proprietary to Jacob & Co and is assembled in-house, combining mechanical haute horlogerie credibility with the brand's signature jewellery-first aesthetic. The blue satin strap, visible in the product shot, is purpose-matched to the sapphire palette.

Teodoro Nguema Obiang Mangue has appeared publicly with numerous ultra-luxury timepieces over the years, and his collection is considered among the most extravagant held by any sitting head of government. His taste runs consistently toward pièces uniques and bespoke commissions from Maisons such as Jacob & Co, Richard Mille, and Hublot — watches that are as much political theatre as personal adornment.

As a pièce unique, no grey-market comparables exist for this reference. The $700,000 list price places it firmly within Jacob & Co's highest tier alongside other one-off Brilliant commissions. For collectors, it represents an unrepeatable intersection of gem-setting craft and haute horlogerie movement work — a watch that could never be replicated even by its own maker.


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Jacob & Co Opera Godfather '50th Anniversary' in 18-carat white gold, with an engraved "Godfather 50 years" logo on the case back

Ref. unknown List Price: $500,000

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