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entrepreneurSpotted January 2023

Entrepreneur Giorgio Armani spotted wearing a Hublot

entrepreneur Giorgio Armani spotted wearing a Hublot
Who & what: Hublot MDM Genève Classic Yellow Gold Black Dial Rubber Strap – Early Reference Spotted on Giorgio Armani

This archive photograph captures Giorgio Armani wearing an early yellow gold Hublot MDM Genève on a black rubber strap — a pairing that, when Carlo Crocco introduced it in 1980, struck the conservative Swiss watch establishment as almost provocative. The image likely dates from the mid-to-late 1980s, a period when both Armani's fashion empire and Hublot's nascent identity were consolidating their respective positions in the luxury market.

The watch on Armani's wrist displays the hallmark traits of first-generation Hublot production: a clean black dial, yellow gold tonneau-adjacent round case with the characteristic twelve porthole-style screws securing the bezel — the detail that gave the brand its name ('hublot' is French for porthole) — and the 'MDM Genève' sub-dial inscription that Crocco placed in tribute to his wife Marie-Danielle before later reinterpreting the acronym as 'Montre de Montres'. A date aperture is visible at three o'clock. The movement inside these early references was a reliable ETA-based calibre, practical rather than showy, consistent with Crocco's philosophy that the design concept should carry the weight.

Collector interest in first-series MDM Genève pieces has grown steadily as Hublot's origin story becomes better understood. These early yellow gold examples on rubber represent the purest expression of Crocco's founding idea before the brand was acquired by LVMH in 2008 and scaled aggressively. Provenance and dial condition — particularly the survival of the original 'MDM Genève' text — are the primary value drivers for serious collectors.

Armani's choice is characteristically considered. A man who built an empire on the principle that restraint is the highest form of sophistication gravitating toward Hublot's deceptively simple 1980s aesthetic makes complete sense. The rubber strap on a gold case was, in its moment, as subversive as Armani's own early rejection of heavy Italian tailoring conventions.

Early yellow gold MDM Genève references trade quietly through specialist auction houses and established dealers. Depending on condition and dial integrity, examples change hands in the $3,000–$8,000 range on the secondary market — modest figures that undervalue their historical significance as the founding artifact of one of watchmaking's most commercially successful modern brands.

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